Cruising the Menu: Sydney Harbour Blue Flag Destinations

Sydney Harbour was formed by the drowning of a river valley 17,000 years ago and now claims bragging rights as the largest natural harbour in the world. I hear the people of Poole dispute this, insisting theirs is bigger, but as it has a vast sandbar at the entrance (and is in England), I think it should be disqualified.

As to which is prettiest, there is little competition; Sydney Harbor wins on every level. Prolific travel writer, Bill Bryson says that it’s “unquestionably the loveliest harbour in the world – blue water, gliding sailboats, the distant arc of the Harbour Bridge with the Opera House squatting cheerfully beside it.”  Old mate Bill has been nearly everywhere and can lambaste any experience with biting cynicism, so that is high praise indeed.

When James Cook visited the east coast of Australia, he anchored in Botany Bay for eight days but sailed straight past the Heads, casually noting the inlet in his log.  So, when Arthur Phillip led the convict armada to Australia in 1788, he was told to establish his outpost in Botany Bay. 

He subsequently decided it wasn’t to his liking and moved to Camp Cove on Port Jackson in a place he described as “the finest harbour in the world.” History tells us he declared possession on the January 26, 1788. It isn’t recorded what the local Eora and Gadigal people thought of that, but the date remains a contentious issue to this day. 

Phillip called the site New Albion, but had second thoughts and named it after the British Home Secretary at the time – Thomas Townshend, aka Lord Sydney – who gave Phillip his authority. 

THE MASTERPLAN

For most people, Port Jackson has become Sydney Harbour, or just "The Harbour" to those lucky enough to live on its fringes. But properly speaking, the port comprises Sydney, North and Middle Harbors as well as the Lane Cove and Parramatta Rivers for an area of 55 square kilometres. It spreads inland for 17 kilometers, but boating to the west of Silverwater Bridge is restricted to Sydney Ferry Rivercats and work vessels. 

The shoreline is around 310 kilometres, 77 of which have been reclaimed. And while there are supposed to hold 587 species of fish, it is recommended that you don’t eat anything caught west of the Bridge because of historical pollution levels from old factories upstream.

Sydney boaties have all of this at their doorstep, and despite being almost loved to death, it is still one of the best boating locations anywhere.

CHAMPAGNE SUPER-HARBOUR

Because it is one of the busiest waterways in the world, it can be a daunting prospect for newcomers. As well as being home to our Navy's fleet base at Garden Island, there is a terrible mix of commercial activity with dozens of ferries, passenger liners, party boats, cargo ships, a fishing fleet, water taxis, workboats and barges all adding to the congestion. Throw in an estimated 20,000 registered recreational boats in the local area, thousands more out in the burbs and a flotilla of kayaks, surf skis, dragon boats and untold sailing dinghies, you start to get the impression that being on the harbour is extremely popular.

But I'm not here to frighten you off the water so I can have more room to romp around. Sure, you will be risking all if you venture onto the Harbour at the height of the festive season when the Sydney to Hobart fleet joins the spectator horde, or when everyone with any sort of floating device tries to find a spot to watch the New Years Eve fireworks. 

The rest of the time, and especially midweek, there is lots of room for everyone as long as you keep a close lookout and maintain a sensible speed. Speaking of which, there are dozens of speed restriction zones so it might be worth having a look at the map on the Roads and Maritime website before you launch.

While it's fun being on the water, if you have ever seen an aerial view of the harbour you will notice that most of the foreshore is taken up by prime residential land. As well as this, many beaches are closed to boating; private clubs restrict access and don’t even think about even nosing up to a ferry wharf. So where do you tie up if you want a feed, a boat part or a toilet break?

As unusual as it might seem, the government has tried to help! For the last few years, the NSW Roads and Maritime Department (RMS) has been working on the Sydney Harbour Destination Plan that has seen nineteen marinas open their doors to the boating public for free!  It might sound too good to be true and as you might expect, conditions apply – hold your applause.

We found that the marinas have embraced the concept to varying degrees but they all benefit from reduced head lease charges paid to RMS, and I’m told the saving can be significant. In addition, the larger places see the benefit of attracting customers to dine and to their other services.

To put the program to the test, as part of our review of the Arvor Weekender in issue #510, we undertook a voyage of discovery to see how the system works. Arvor's Weekender 755 was an ideal size for exploring the harbour, and like Goldilocks' chair it wasn’t too big and wasn’t too small – it was just right. Because making your way into unfamiliar berths can be tricky, especially when you are in someone else’s boat and about to damage someone else’s mega yacht. The Weekender was easy to maneuver and suited us just fine for an overnight stay and a quick blast around the vast waterway.

Finding the participating marinas is relatively easy, although access and facilities vary enormously. Maps can be obtained from your local RMS branch or by downloading from their site, but both the printed map and web have errors.

Or, if you like, go for a wander and find them for yourselves. A green flag or banner denotes a Boating Destination Marina, and a blue one shows you where to tie up. It can be tricky finding the right flag amid all the signs and decorations, and facilities range from a place with essential services to a full-blown five-star facility. And while it’s free, in all cases, spaces are limited, usually on a first come first served basis and mooring times are limited depending on availability. Touring midweek will be preferable for everyone concerned.

1. Birkenhead Marina, Drummoyne (max. 30m)

Fuel, toilet, pump out, water, power, shopping, food.

This is the only Global Marina Accredited Platinum rated marina on the harbour and, with the variety of Birkenhead Brand Outlets right there, you have a wide range of shops and eateries. The toilets are a bit of a walk, but docking is easy on the long floating wharf, and there is a café right at your berth. Stay free for 30 minutes then $20 for three hours with all club facilities and lounge available. Because it’s so accessible the marina fills with visiting Sydney Hobart yachts over December, space is at a prime. 

P (02) 9819 6949

2. Rose Bay Marina, Rose Bay (max. 20m)

Food, fuel, pump out, water, power, Wi-Fi, marine services.

Free for 30 to 60 minutes, but might be able to accommodate you on a mooring with free tender service. Book ahead. In the western end of Rose Bay with a straightforward approach and loads of room. Enjoy breakfast or lunch at The Tide café on the water and the Regatta restaurant upstairs.  P (02) 9327 7847

3. d’Albora Marina, The Spit (max. 11m)

Fuel, toilet, food, water, marine services.

This marina has embraced the blue flag philosophy to make casual visitors welcome. Home to several boat dealers and a choice of eateries, access is easy, and you get two-hours free mooring, depending on the season. You have the option of fine-dining or laid-back Italian restaurants.  There's a park nearby if the youngsters want to have a run. P (02) 9960 7700

4. d’Albora Marina, Cabarita Point (max. 10m)

Fuel, toilet, pump out, water, power, food.

This little gem is the lazy Parramatta River, where we found easy docking on the well-highlighted berth. This destination is extremely popular for the Vela Italian Restaurant and the Café Sanders kiosk, but book ahead to be sure you get in.  There’s a pool and a park with BBQ nearby, and with two-hours free, there should be time to enjoy them. P (02) 9743 6277

5. d’Albora Marina CYCA, Rushcutters Bay (max. 20m)

Fuel, toilet, food, marine services.

You'll be in sailing heaven with many of the best racing and cruising yachts straining at their leashes. Secure your boat and take a wander or settle in at the club bistro – club 44 – for breakfast or lunch with views over the water. Lots of historical photos and trophies on display and a comprehensive chandlery nearby. 

P (02) 8292 7800

6. Clontarf Marina, The Spit (max. 18m)

Fuel, food, toilet, pump out, water, power.

Tucked into the eastern shore at The Spit is this newly renovated marina with effortless access to the extended floating jetty. Pleasant outdoor setting at the café and a short stroll to a small park. P (02) 9949 5399

7. Roseville Bridge Marina, Roseville Chase (max. 12m)

Food, toilet, pump out, water, marine services.

Easy access to an outside dock with plenty of room in a quiet location at the top end of Middle Harbour. There’s outside eating at Echo on the Water restaurant, open Wed-Sun 8am-4pm. Well worth the trip. P (02) 9417 8222

8. Ferguson’s Boatshed Marina, The Spit  (max. 30m)

Food, toilet, water, power, Wi-Fi, marine services.

In the busy commercial marina adjacent to Ferguson's Boatshed. Access can be tricky, and there is high demand in summer so book ahead and ask for help. The Plonk restaurant is the focal point for visitors, but there's also a sandy beach for the kids. P 0408 696 969

9. Smith’s Spit Boatshed, The Spit (max. 10m)

Food, toilet, water, power, marine services.

In the busy commercial marina adjacent to Ferguson's Boatshed. Access can be tricky, and there is high demand in summer so book ahead and ask for help. The Plonk restaurant is the focal point for visitors, but there's also a sandy beach for the kids. 

10. Middle Harbour Yacht Club, The Spit (max. 15m)

Food, toilet, pump out, water, power, marine services.

A great place to dine with the Harbour View Restaurant open for lunch and the Sandbar Café from 8am-3pm daily. Finding the blue flag is tricky. P (02) 9969 1244

11.  Balmoral Boat Shed, Balmoral Bay (max. 10m)

Food, toilet, water, power, marine services.

It's in a beautiful bay, but the approach through moored boats and the high timber wharf can be intimidating. P (02) 9969 6006

12. Manly Boatshed, Fairlight

Food, toilet, water, Wi-Fi, marine services.

Not quite in Manly as such and the approach is through a maze of moored boats. Pretty wharf with drinks and sorbet. P 0419 273 204

13.  Point Piper Marina, Rose Bay (max. 30m)

Water, power, Wi-Fi. 

Beautiful wharf with a modern floating marina, housing a collection of luxury motor yachts. Great for a walk on the beach. The Rose Bay Marina manages this marina, and they would probably direct you to that facility. P (02) 9327 7847

14.  Gladesville Bridge Marina, Drummoyne (max. 17m)

Toilet, water, marine services.

Easy access but limited facilities. Vending machine for drinks and chips. Up to one hour free depending on the season. P (02) 9181 2014

15. Cammeray Marina, Long Bay (max. 13m)

Food, toilet, showers, water, power.

This is a small commercial marina in the tranquil Long Bay, Middle Harbour. Limited facilities with vending machine for drinks and chocolates. P (02) 9953 4761

16. Kirribilli Marina, Kirribilli (max. 20m)

Toilet, marine services.

Nestled into the end of a busy cove with lots of moored boats, it's alongside the Lyric Theatre and the Sydney Flying Squadron, but it's a problematic approach, especially at low tide. 

17. Balmain Marina, Balmain (max. 12m)

Toilet, pump out, water, marine services.

Right next door to Cameron’s Marina and a short stroll to a park and a pool. P (02) 9555 7049

18. Cameron’s Marina, Balmain

Toilet, marine services. 

A small commercial marina with limited facilities, swing moorings with complimentary tender service. Good for a toilet stop or a walk to Elkington Park and a swim at the enclosed Dawn Fraser pool. P (02) 9810 7808

19. Double Bay Marina, Double Bay (max. 18m)

Toilet, Wi-Fi, marine services.

A commercial slipway with limited recreational facilities. Close to Steyne Park. P (02) 9327 2400

20. Sydney Superyacht Centre

On some printed maps but not in the program.